WINO, Ventura County Chapter
More Travel Stories
Chateau Ste. Michelle
In July, 1983 the Society of Wine Educators held its annual conference in Seattle, 
Washington. My late husband, Ken Bartlett, was serving as vice president of the association at the time and we were fortunate to attend. The highlight of the meeting was the reception and dinner at Chateau Ste. Michelle. That visit is a special memory. When we arrived at the 87-acre estate it felt as if we had been transported to a wooded section of rural France. The evening started in the grassy grounds where we were served cool glasses of a delicate yet elegant white wine. While we talked we ate sumptuous hors-d’oeuvres from trays passed by waiters. From there we were taken to an ornate room inside a stately building resembling a French Château. There we saw tables covered with linen, and each place was surrounded by a myriad of glasses and silverware. A dinner of Northwest cuisine complemented by Chateau Ste. Michelle wines made that evening complete.
My second visit to the Chateau in June, 2011, with the International Food Wine and Travel Writer’s Association (IFW&TWA) brought a new perspective. Back in the same beautiful building, which was just as I remembered, we were introduced to John Sarich, Culinary Director of the winery. Here is a man that brings the story of Ste. Michelle to life by teaching a whole new slant on the pairing of wine and food – and, in fact, Sarich wrote a book, Chef in the Vineyard, on the subject. This book is a treasure filled with innovative yet uncomplicated recipes from great wine estates.
When Chateau Ste. Michelle opened in September, 1976, Sarich was a visitor. Needing money for graduate school and knowing that his background suited him for the job he became a guide. For several years after that he wore many hats: as wine salesman, head chef and restaurant owner, but Chateau Ste. Michelle had a special spot in his heart. In 1990 he returned and took the position he holds today.
This second visit I was with a group of very knowledgeable and talented veteran writers. We had seen it all. Ho hum, another food and wine pairing. Then Sarich strolled into that room and lit it up! The 10 of us were seated at a long table, facing each other. In front of us was a place mat with six glasses of wine and a plate of yummy looking food. On the plate, arranged in a circle, were six courses starting with two glistening prawns curled around each other, then a slice of pizza smeared with goat cheese and topped with bright green and red vegetables. Next came a skewer red and green peppers and a hearty chunk of beef, looking like something right out of Bon Appétit. Beside the beef was an oval of bread topped by perfectly-cooked pink lamb. The dessert course was a square with three layers: soft cookie bottom, lemon cream middle, and a bright orange apricot topping. It wasn’t more than two by three inches, but it looked like a tantalizing combination. Completing the circle, at the bottom on the plate was a blue-veined cheese. Normally I would opt to skip a fragrant cheese, but I decided to wait and see what Sarich had in mind for a pairing.
We eyed the wine glasses. First sat three goblets with white wine, then two containing red vintages, and another pale liquid at the far right. Our taste master had us begin, and not in first glass, first food order. Sarich seemed to be all over the place, giving us the feeling of being at a private tasting with him. His enthusiasm was catching. We were directed to try a food, then a wine. We skipped from red to white and back again, with Sarich having us note the difference and understanding through our taste buds what food truly matched the wine. We discussed bold with bold and delicate with delicate. In addition, Sarich advised us to be adventurous, to try some new combination so we might make a great discovery. Ken Bartlett’s motto was, “If you like it, drink it” which this fits in with what Sarich advises: “If Merlot is the wine you like, by all means enjoy it with any meal.” Turns out I ate everything on my plate, even that stinky cheese! Sarich paired it with a 2008 Ethos late harvest white Riesling that was like a honey and citrus cocktail. My discovery was the cheese provided an excellent salty contrast. No wonder the winery gushes that “John’s innovative approach to pairing food and wine has delighted discriminating palates across the country.”
Ted Baselar, president and CEO of Château Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, believes the winery has grown and prospered because it followed the edict of all great wine estates: it knows which grapes flourish, its leaders strive to be pioneers, and it has a memorable story to tell. Baselar asserts the story is Pacific Northwest cuisine’s magical pairing with the vintages it produces. Further, he notes that the winery has pushed research but at the same time respected traditional methods. The winery was a pioneer in vinifera grape growing in Washington state.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Woodinville Winery is one of the most visited attractions in the Seattle area. It is located in Woodinville, 15 miles northeast of Seattle. The winery is open daily and there is no charge for the tour and tasting, something no longer found in California. There is a small fee for a tasting of reserve and library wines. The great thing abut this experience is that it works for both novice and Oenophiles. A good thing to do if planning a visit is to go to the web site, www.ste-michelle.com for further information.
Seven Springs Winery, Linn Creek
It is hard to believe that there is a more picturesque setting for a winery than that of Seven Springs Winery and Vineyards. The owner, Mike Bleile, disclosed that he purchased these 160 acres and carved out the facility from scratch. The owner has included not only the vines and winery property but an inviting patio area. This area features umbrella and comfortable chairs next to a fence composed of metal grape clusters interspersed with red brick columns. You can enjoy your wine and catch stunning views there or on the spacious covered veranda. If wine is not your thing they serve a few micro-brews
Once you are settled, take a look at the lengthy list of wines you can try. 
Since the temperatures can reach 82-84 degrees in the summer months, best not to try all ten. The helpful servers are knowledgeable and can guide you if you would like some hints on what to try. Your choices range from the Chardonel, a hybrid varietal fruity white wine, to the Seven’s Red Heaven, a sweet, deep plum-color favored by the locals. The Norton, a varietal indigenous to North America, might be an option to please a west coast palate. While enjoying the wines why not try some the Nibblers or Light Fare. To pair with Chardonel they recommend the Lump Crab and Brie Quesadilla topped with green onions and a side of fresh mango salsa. For the Seven’s Red Heaven they suggest the Meat and Cheese Platter with sliced summer sausages with aged cheddar cheese, crackers and Crostini.
The food that is available is really outstanding. For more hardy meal try Chef Josh Juarez’s Spicy Shrimp and Crab Bisque with wild bay shrimp, lump crab, herbs and cayenne in a rich cream sauce. Add to that a whole wheat wrap of either Cranberry and Curried Chicken salad of Turkish-style chicken with dried cranberries, toasted almonds, onion and a mild yellow curry or the Beef Bourguignon wrap of roast beef with onions and mushrooms sautéed in Norton red wine.
To further your enjoyment there is Sax on the Beach. Bill Ehelebe is the Sax of Saxophone and keyboards and Haley Powers entertains with vocals and guitar. They make a great team and in the summer of 2011 they will be playing every Friday evening and Saturday and Sunday afternoon. Listening to Haley we suggested that she might want to try for American Idol but she reported that she had already registered for the next trials.
Just looking around the property you knew they offer locations for weddings, parties and special events. If it is a catered food you are interested in, it is prepared on site.
Seven Springs Winery and Vineyards is located in Linn Creek MO, 65052. between Camdenton and Osage Beach. Phone: 573.317.0100. To get exact directions go to the web site, www.sevenspringswinery.com. The winery shuttle bus offers pick ups from the lake area for a maximum of 14 guests for a charge of $10 per person.
Gulf Shores Jesse’s Restaurant in Magnolia Springs
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My B & B in the town of Magnolia Springs, Ala., served wonderful breakfasts that turned out to be not only delicious but low calorie too, which took care of my first meal each day. While looking for a spot for lunch, dinner, or maybe both, I hit it out of the park when I discovered Jesse’s. The promise the restaurant makes is it provides “casual fine dining at its best.” What a concept! Diners can relax and enjoy themselves while eating like kings. (Side note: I walked to Jesse’s, but I could have come by boat on the Magnolia River. As a matter of fact, Magnolia Springs possesses the only remaining mail delivery by water in America.)
Stop anyone in this town with a population of 3,946 and they can explain how this prominent establishment came about and why it is named Jesse’s. In 1922, Mac and Grey Moore bought the building that became Moore’s Store. The locals soon christened it Mo’s Sto’. Not only did the shop carry food, it offered shoes, chickens, feed, and I suppose the kitchen sink. These goods came to the store by boat or buggy. Jesse King worked for 60 years in the store, never missing a day’s work. In 1992 he was named an Outstanding Alabama Citizen and April 5th became observed as Jesse King Appreciation Day. The Post Office next door eventually became a dining room. Both the Moore Brothers Market and the old Post Office are on the National Register of Historic Places.
In 1997 Charlie and Jane Houser bought the market and began the process of revitalizing the building, making it a popular spot for locals. In 2008 Charlie’s son and daughter-in-law Shay and Nicole Houser became owners of the store and restaurant.
Having enjoyed all the wonderful seafood the Gulf has to offer, I never would have guessed the house specialty is Jesse’s Whiskey Steak, rated “One of 100 dishes to eat in Alabama before you die”. The steaks are hand cut and marinated in Jack Daniel’s and a secret mix of spices. The steak is served with fresh-baked bread, vegetables, and a choice of potatoes or grits. All this is offered for an eye-popping low price of $25. Another entree is blackened filet mignon stuffed with shrimp, lump crab, mushrooms and topped with hollandaise. Interesting appetizer offerings listed were local blue crab claws, prepared sautéed or fried, fried green tomatoes, and fresh Gulf oysters. The wine list would match sophisticated offerings in any big city. The great dishes at Jesse’s are prepared by Chef Gannon Leary, who is known not only for his excellent food, but also for mixing with the guests to greet them and make them feel at home.
A very important component of the restaurant is the coffee shop and bakery, which features Chef Jennifer Haffner’s offerings. She brought out a dessert tray that was a sugar lover’s dream! There were five of the most exceptional concoctions I have ever seen. The bread pudding was made with freshly baked croissants and was swimming in a vanilla whiskey sauce. Other options included a miniature chocolate pecan pie, an apple-cranberry cobbler, Lane cake (a cake so famous in Alabama it was mentioned in the novel, To Kill a Mockingbird,) and a chocolate truffle cake surrounded by raspberry sauce. If the tray didn’t suit you could have a piece of special key lime pie or almost any flavor of pie you could think up. I had to go for the chocolate and it was as scrumptious as it looked.
Jesse’s Restaurant is open from 11 am to 9 pm Monday-Thursday and open until 10:00 pm Friday and Saturday. The Market and Bakery are open from 7 am to 8 pm Monday-Saturday. All businesses are closed on Sundays. 14770 Oak Street, Magnolia Springs, Alabama, phone 251.3827 - www.jessesrestaurant.com
Gulf Shores, Cetacean Cruises
Rain, rain, go away! That is what our group was thinking as our bus pulled into the parking lot overlooking the Alabama Cruzin, a 40-foot pontoon boat that we were anxious to board. But the rain was hard and steady and didn’t let up. The hardy skipper, Bill Mitchell, and his wife Sheryl boarded instead our bus to tell us about the experience we would miss.
The best time of day to enjoy this encounter is two hours prior to sundown as the waters are calm and the passengers can view the spectacular sunsets. The boat has a glass bottom and when the water is clear you can view the local sea life. There are two ways to enjoy the trip. You can choose 1-1/2 hour stint that concentrates on seeking dolphins and learning all their secrets. Hopefully, you will instead choose the half-hour longer program where the boat navigates to a deserted swamp where you can view the sea wildlife in their natural habitats. Best to choose the longer excursion as it would be a shame to miss the sight of wild boars, alligators, deer, snakes, crabs, and a multitude of fascinating plants.
The part of the cruise that concentrates on dolphins takes you to observe a resident pod of 19 to 30 of these creatures. Two interesting facts we learned were that in navigating the boat crew never separate the mother and the baby and they do not interrupt the animals when they are grieving for a dead member of the pod. Captain Bill spoke of them by name because observing these animals so often, the crew has given them names. They tell the dolphins apart by certain natural markings or by some distinctive injury they might have received. The captain is concerned with keeping the dolphins healthy. He explained that some boats throw out food to attract them when actually the dolphins need to learn to catch their own food. These dolphin boats are only in the area during the summer. Scientists have found that younger animals that do not learn to fend for themselves often die of starvation. Under Captain Bill’s watch the tour is peaceful, no raucous loud speaker, only the soft sound of the water while you watch the dolphins as they play in the bow wake when the boat is under sail.
Cetacean Cruises, 25991 West Perdido Avenue, Orange Beach, Alabama. Phone 251.550-8000. Website: www.cetaceancruises.com
Gulf Shores, Magnolia B & B
If you could have it all, how would you construct the perfect bed and breakfast? Let’s see, first, a romantic setting – perhaps the streets would be lined with a few magnolia trees, and a scenic river in the area would be nice. Next, have some interesting shops a short walk down the street. For atmosphere, maybe some famous Southern hospitality and a laid-back ambience. Not too many rooms, maybe five, and of course each with a private bath. The furnishings of each room would be in tune with the rest of the house. In evidence would be wooden floors covered with sturdy rugs that look as if they have passed the test of time, and walls to match. In this ideal abode you would want innkeepers who are friendly, but not intrusive. They would provide food of superior quality, superbly prepared and presented. Furthermore, this cuisine should be healthy and low calorie as well. Have I gone too far? No such place? Wrong, all is possible!
Magnolia Springs Bed & Breakfast is situated in the town of the same name in Alabama, a few minutes from the Gulf Shores. The innkeepers are David Worthington and Eric Bigelow, who met in the restaurant industry and discovered that they were a team, the only way to function in this particular hospitality business. They opened their B& B in 1997.
Worthington and Bigelow enjoy sharing their home and hospitality with others. The crown jewel of this operation is that David not only loves to eat but is interested in low-fat, healthy cuisine. The breakfast fare is the biggest hurdle since high fat and calorie eggs, meat, cheese and bread are the usual ingredients. I have tasted the magic three-course feast David concocted with recipes such as Crustless Spinach Pie, Zucchini and Tomato Frittata, Baked Apple Pancakes and Breakfast Pizza that could satisfy the most health-conscious eater. Culinary class weekend packages with a chef’s tasting menu also are available
Contact: David Worthington or Eric Bigelow, Magnolia Springs Bed & Breakfast, l4469 Oak St., Magnolia Springs AL 36555. Phone: 800.965-7321. E-mailinfo@magnoliasprings.com
Gulf Shores, SanRoc Cay
I confess, I hate to shop. It rates right up there with going to the dentist. Well, maybe not quite that bad, but almost. Last November I was to visit the SanRoc Cay shopping center in Orange Beach, Ala. Remembering what my mother wisely advised me, “Sometimes you have the best time when you are expecting it the least,” I put a smile on my face and stepped off the bus into a beautiful setting – Mediterranean buildings, attractive rock structures, an art center, an enormous flying marlin in a fountain, four restaurants, and a spa! The center really has everything covered.
Actually, I found I loved the boutiques. I instantly forgot that there was not that much room left in my suitcase when I went in the door at Too Hot Mamas. Now when you compare this shop with say a Macy’s in a mall it is small, but just looking inside we could see there were fresh and intriguing items. We five ladies went in, all different sizes, ages and tastes and all found something fun and exciting to take home. I even discovered the 
perfect item for me: a shirt featuring the names of wines, various colored and shaped bottles and glasses encrusted with crystal sparkles, and sayings that must have come from Victorian times. The cryptic adages were written in white. My favorite was, “Now that the fields are dank, and ways are mire, Where shall we sometimes meet, and by the fire.” All of this was on a black background to display the elaborate designs.
I managed to find room in my suitcase and later wore my find to a wine dinner. The treasure was an instant hit and the fun part came when my friends wanted to know where I found this jewel. I was able to tell them that I discovered it in Alabama. Everyone wanted to know name of the shop or the manufacturer. They even tried to peek at the label but fortunately I had removed the evidence. But really, that is very selfish of me. I think I need to tell them that they can go to www.sanroccay.com and find web sites and pictures of merchandise from the Two Hot Mamas and all the stores.
Gulf Shores Overview
Alabama’s Best-Kept Secret
Last September I read about an opportunity to travel to the Gulf Shores and Orange Beach in Alabama. That made me stop and think - Alabama and Gulf shores, could that be? Wow, can it! I took out my trusty atlas and sure enough there was Alabama on the northern-most coast of the Gulf of Mexico. However, that immediately brought to mind that Gulf Coast and BP oil spill went together. What a tragedy that was. But you see the point of the trip was to show the world that Alabama’s coast was fully recovered and ready to host the world and anxious to show 32 miles of the most beautiful beaches in the world.
Lucky me, I did go on that trip and saw what the publicity meant by sugar- sand beaches. I’ve encountered the sand from the Pacific Islands to the Caribbean and the feel of that sand between you toes is like no other. When I took off my sandals it was like sliding on satin.
Now the only thing missing was people. I walked in the sand there were only my footprints. Good reason for that, it was the middle of November but still warm enough to explore the shore. And of course the thing I was checking out was, is there oil spoiling this paradise? No way. Digging in the sand produced no evidence of that dreaded spoiler of the beach. I looked to my left and there was one of the reasons. Night and day until the end of January, 2011, machines claw at the earth 24 hours a day to dig deep for any possible oil that could be left. This effort was made possible by grants awarded by BP and a series of concerts by such big names as Jimmy Buffet and Bon Jove. It was two weeks before the first oil was posted in this region. This locality was one of the lightest hit. Further, because the damage was later, locals were better prepared to deal with the problem expeditiously.
The shore is lined with condos, beach houses, hotels, bed-and-breakfasts’, as well as RV parks and campgrounds. Lucky me, I did get to go on the trip and able to get the best view possible in a 2,700 square foot condo on the seventh floor of Spectrum Resorts Turquoise Place. What fun I had rattling around in it by myself. However, I only slept in the master bedroom, why would I leave floor to ceiling windows overlooking my balcony and an endless view of sand and water matching the shade of the turquoise exterior of my palace.
I am surrounding this overview of the Gulf Shores with some of my pictures. I will be writing in detail about the many exciting locations I discovered on my journey.
A Victorian Promise Kept
In June, 1973, my family and I ventured to Victoria, British Columbia, Canada in our motorhome. My husband and I were on our way to start summer school at Eastern Washington State and decided to take a short trip to visit the Empress Hotel to enjoy their famous afternoon tea service. It was such a delightful memory that when we left on the Evergreen Ferry my daughter, Diana, and I promised each other that we would come back one day.
This last September we got the chance to do just that. I told Diana that there was a wine cruise that offered an excursion of that same afternoon tea treat we remembered. We made our reservations on the cruise and the outing and the reality was everything we remembered and more.
We left the ship and were bussed to downtown Victoria and the Fairmont Empress Hotel. We were escorted to the elegantly-restored Tea Lobby with a panoramic view of sparkling waters of Victoria’s Inner Harbour. The tables and chairs appeared to be antique with a definite flavor of the Orient, reminding us that tea was the featured beverage. There were eight of us in our group, some of us sat on the plush brightly-colored settee and the rest of us settled around the table in delicately carved chairs with plush seats.
We watched as the signature “Tea at the Empress” was brewed and served for us by a skilled master of blends. Then the delicious repast began with luscious strawberries straight from the Cowican Valley with whipped cream so thick you could stand up your spoon in it.
The most dramatic moment came when the server brought in the silver three-tiered tray laden with our feast. We began our adventure with the bottom layer containing the innovative sandwiches. There was an egg salad croissant, a smoked salmon pinwheel, a mushroom pate crostini, and a delicious mango and curried chicken sandwich. Looking at the two additional levels we knew we couldn’t eat them all but had to make some choices.
Next we discovered the middle level contained freshly-baked raisin scones with our own small jar of strawberry jam and Empress Cream for the topping. Now if that wasn’t enough to fill you up layer number three was comprised of some of the most delicious pastries you could image, creations of award-winning Pastry Chef D’Oyen Christie. How could you even choose between the lemon curd and berry tart, rose petal shortbread, green tea cheesecake, chocolate tulip with wild cherry and Battenberg cake? Turns out, problem solved, they gave you an attractive box to accommodate all your uneaten goodies. In addition to the container you also received an elegant commemorative box of Empress Tea as a remembrance of your special day.
You can reserve this experience ahead of time by contacting the Fairmont Empress Hotel, 721 Government Street, Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, toll free 1-866-540-4429.
Lily
Here I was on Main Street in Maine looking for another seafood restaurant when I saw the name, Lily
Bistro. The change of pace sounded like a good idea. Once inside I felt I was back in a cafe in a small French village in Provence. On my left were walls of a color the owners call “lily bud green”, a hue so bright it seems to be saying, “wake up it’s spring, even if its winter outside.” The wall on the right is exposed brick, quite a contrast in color and texture.
The thing that catches your eyes is the chandelier, a work of art. The craftsman who executed the fixture is Patti Kissinger, a glass blower at Prism Glass in Rockport. There are sconces in the shape of a bulb with a light inside with green scapes floating around them. A scape is a long, curly, shoot which spikes out at the end of a bulb. The name of the restaurant again goes back to bulbs. As Chef Lynette explains, lilies, onions, garlic, and leeks are all members of the same family. Bulbs have traditionally invoked thoughts of spring and renewed life, but to her it says, “You can’t do French cooking without it,”
The chefs have a unique division of labor. Chef Bob is the baker, including using his own fifty-year old starter for the sourdough, while handling the bar and cocktails. Chef Lynette handles the kitchen duties producing cuisine that they hope is simple, classic, and focused. She isn’t timid about mixing things up, trying unique combinations. One theme is that she puts together foods in the same family since as she says, “If it grows together, it goes together.” That means to her that leeks, garlic, onions, and asparagus work together. They pride themselves on sourcing their food products from local sources, even herbs and vegetables grown in their own backyard.
The night I was there for an appetizer I had Soft Corn pudding with creamed green garlic, bacon emulsion, and pea sprouts, served in a ramekin piping hot from the kitchen. What a fantastic combination. Several other dishes were tempting--Maine crab salad with avocado, cucumber, red onion, and aioli or their famous rustic port pate with pistachios, crostini, cornichons, and two different mustards. For the entrée I couldn’t pass up the steak with blue velvet butter and frites, as it brought back memories of the “bifteck et pommes frites” our teenagers, Diana and Michael, ordered everywhere in France, missing a lot of good things! And I must mention it was served with fiddleheads with garlic and sautéed in butter. Fiddleheads? Turns out they are unfurled fronds from young fern and prized as a delicacy by New Englanders. Figures they have to be good for you! The desserts, chocolate ganache cake, house spun ice cream, and cream brulee, would be hard to decide between except for the fact that I never pass up chocolate ganache!
After dinner you might take a short walk downstairs to see the wine cellar. The walls are granite and brick, with table to enjoy a glass of wine or beer or cocktails from their full bar. I find the wine list intriguing in its eclectic choices and reasonable price, with many wines available by the glass. I understand that Bob changes it seasonally, an interesting twist.
Lily is located at 421 Main Street, Rockland, Maine. They are open year round, seven days a week, 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Phone (highly recommended as they are a ten-table establishment) is 207-594-4141.
Rockland Café
In the town of Rockland, Maine, particularly on Main Street, you can find a great variety of restaurants. One can eat French, Mexican, or Thai cuisine. But if you want a simple meal, served by friendly people, and you like it fast, look for the Rockland Café at 441 Main Street. Its motto is, “Come as a stranger; leave as a friend” and it lives up to that promise.
Looking at the menu the proprietors seem to serve almost everything. It even boasts a low-carb menu! Choose from prime rib to lobster, pork chop to seafood lasagna, crabmeat melts to Texas chili, it’s all there. You can order sandwiches or every combination of seafood salad you can think of. Breakfast until noon, its got it covered. You can choose seafood as “all you can eat” or just a platter and have it with a glass of wine.
I arrived a cool day just looking for something to fill the gap between a hardy breakfast and a dinner I knew would be plentiful. There was a friendly and helpful server to guide me. Listening to the choices, I knew that seafood chowder was just the thing I needed. It was served promptly, hot and delicious. And off I went, a friend, not a stranger.
Rockland Café is open seven days a week. Their hours vary with the season, with longer hours May to September, phone 207.596-7556.
Charlottesville, Virginia
Charlottesville, Virginia, is more than just a pretty picture postcard of Monticello, the home of our third president. For instance, think of the University of Virginia as representing excellence in education. For a glimpse of 19th Century life there is Michie’s Tavern and Ash Lawn-Highland, the more modest home of our fifth President, James Monroe. For some fun things to do, the Downtown Mall is for strolling, networking and shopping. Noted for fine dining are Hamilton’s and the Clifton Inn. A great stop for wine tasting would be both Jefferson Vineyards and Kluge Winery and Estate. And there is a pleasant, convenient place to stay while seeing all this: the Cavalier Inn, just across the way from the University of Virginia.
Of all our destinations in Charlottesville, Monticello was the most culturally significant and stunningly beautiful. I knew from the time I first found out I would be going to Virginia that this was the place I most wanted to visit – and it far exceeded my expectations! Monticello was the cherished home of Thomas Jefferson. It is one of the most identifiable residences in the world. At the conclusion of his second term as president Jefferson was anxious to return home to Monticello, his “harbor” with his family, books and farm. The 5,000-acre plantation is located on the lower slope of Monticello Mountain.
The place to begin your introduction to Monticello is the Thomas Jefferson Visitor Center, which opened in 2009. Start with an introductory film which speaks of the many facets of Thomas Jefferson. Listening to the story of his life and seeing his many inventions will make you think of the similarities to the great minds of Leonardo Da Vinci and Benjamin Franklin. His biographer, James Parton, said he could "calculate an eclipse, survey an estate, tie an artery, plan an edifice, try a cause, break a horse, dance a minuet and play the violin." You will see evidence of Jefferson’s versatility everywhere in his residence.
Confirmation of his talents is in the four exhibitions in the Visitor’s Center. The first is entitled, “The Words of Thomas Jefferson.” Jefferson was a prolific writer of letters, and his legacy is more than 200 quotations which have been placed on the wall. John Adams said of his vast correspondence, “he had a felicity of expression.” “Thomas Jefferson and the Boisterous Sea of Liberty,” the second exhibit, illustrated the influence of Jefferson’s beliefs that led to his writing of the Declaration of Independence. His beliefs are projected on a wall of 21 flat-panel screens. Seven of these are interactive touch screens. The words are in different colors and are continually changing. The third exhibition is entitled “Monticello: Jefferson’s Essay in Architecture,” which shows how Jefferson’s vision of his future home evolved. His drawings and models are preserved and displayed in the center along with his drafting instruments.
The forth and most dramatic exhibition is entitled “Monticello as an Experiment: to try all things.” There are more than 200 objects and models of the devices Jefferson thought of to make life easier. One of the most fascinating is the machine he called the Polygraph, which was actually a copy machine. Who knew the idea began so long ago! Another invention is an extremely useful tool, the “plow of least expenditure of force” which he invented by using a mathematical calculation. A gadget that will catch your eye is the wheel cipher. Just looking at it, it might be hard to infer its use. This metal wheel was used to encode and decode messages during the Revolutionary War. You will see many of these inventions in action when you visit the house itself.
The original home was a two-story, eight-room house. In 1796, upon returning from his duties as the American minister to France, he began transforming his home into a three-story, 21-room edifice that reflected the homes he had seen in Paris. A short ride up the hill will take you to the great structure itself. Visitors are ushered through the impressive doors by a guide who was completely in character as a butler. I doubt that there was a fact about Jefferson your guides will not know. You will go through the house and learn the many details of his life and to see his practical time-saving devices put to work.
From your tour of Monticello you can go directly down the mountain to the Jefferson Vineyards. Thomas Jefferson was noted as America’s “first distinguished viticulturist.” When he took office he added a new budget item – wine. The vineyards he planted in 1774 were just a mile south of Monticello. Today, Jefferson Vineyards winery grows its grapes at that same site, the vineyards being replanted in 1981. Arriving at the tasting room in mid-morning you will be treated to a delightful sample of four dry white wines and four dry red wines. One of the most impressive wines is the 2007 Meritage, which received the Taster’s Guild International Gold Medal two years in a row.
Next, journey another notch down the hill and back in time to Michie’s Tavern. Here you will be treated to a sumptuous Southern buffet, created from recipes dating back to the 18th Century and served by the staff dressed in period attire, speaking in character of that period of time. Michie’s Tavern is open during midday, following the custom of that era of eating the main meal of the day at this time.
The meal is served buffet style from large copper vessels that are constantly being replenished. You can serve yourself as much of you want of colonial fried chicken, hickory-smoked pork, black-eyed peas and stewed tomatoes, mashed potatoes and gravy, whole baby beets, coleslaw, homemade biscuits, and cornbread. Beware of taking too many servings, as after the meal the helpers will be around to serve you apple cobbler with vanilla ice cream! If you are there in the winter months you will have the comfort of dining fireside.
Now for a little exercise after that meal! The tour of the general store and tavern comes next. You will learn about the founder, William Michie, see the rooms where visitors spent the night, visit the gaming room, and learn about the various diversions of the era. Most fun is working with a group to learn the dance steps and then performing the Virginia reel together.
Time for more wine tasting, and thankfully Kluge Winery and Estate is just down the road. What a showplace of natural beauty! Rolling hills surround the vineyards, a perfect setting for the farm shop that houses the tasting room. The winery founder and chairman is Patricia Kluge, who is supported in this venture by her husband, William Moses. You will have someone to assist you in enjoying a tasting of Kluge wine. We had the distinct pleasure of being met at the farm store/tasting room by Kristin Moses Murray, who works with her parents as Director of Public Relations and Marketing. She is a dynamic speaker who knows how to make her guests feel at home while imparting information about the wine and winery.
Patrons are treated to a special tasting with Kluge wines served in an innovative way. At each place you will find a Plexiglas holder containing four V-shaped plastic vials, two filled with white wine, the other two with red. Under the clear holder is the description of the wines. On your table you will find small platters containing various cheeses, fruits and nuts to complement the vintages. Making the event complete are not only the flowers on the table but large windows that look out on the garden, which gave us the feeling of springtime in September.
Refreshed by food and drink, look nearby for more history-comes-alive at Ash Lawn-Highland. Here you will find the historic house-museum and working farm much as it was when President James Monroe and his wife Elizabeth lived there from 1793 to 1826. Monroe was the fifth president of the U.S.
As a young soldier Monroe was with General George Washington as he crossed the Delaware River. He was wounded in battle and camped at Valley Forge during the infamously cold winter of 1777. When Monroe returned to Williamsburg after the war he met Thomas Jefferson, then governor of Virginia. In that time period one “read law,” which meant one would work as an intern with a lawyer to enter that profession. Jefferson was the person Monroe chose to work with and this was the beginning of a life-long friendship. Monroe’s years of public service included the U.S. Senate and serving as the governor of Virginia. He is acclaimed for being instrumental in the final negotiation to complete the Louisiana Purchase and the formulation of the Monroe Doctrine, which let the world know the United States would consider any effort to colonize land in the U.S. an act of aggression.
The tradition of Ash Lawn-Highland is that all were to be welcomed, friends and family as well as visitors. That practice is preserved today by the College of William and Mary. Monroe, an alumnus of this educational 
institute, left the property in its care. Those who work there are dedicated to “continuing a program to preserve and restore the special character of the Highland estate.” When you visit there you will be received by many colorful characters in the dress of that period, and they all have a story to tell. One really special treat is the demonstration of open hearth cooking. You enter a small building located on the lawn near the house and meet a woman dressed in 19th Century mode who demonstrates the cooking method as it was practiced in the kitchens during the period the Monroes lived there. She will tell you the various types of things cooked as well as the hazards of this type of food preparation.
From here is a short, scenic trip to visit the University of Virginia to take a tour of the Rotunda and grounds, but that is a story for another day.
Crusin’ to Alaska In Style
What is the recipe for the perfect trip to Alaska; how do you assemble the most outstanding cruise? The best way is to find a great companion, look for friendly and efficient service, find an extensive number of diverse shore excursions to choose from, and then enjoy great fortune with lots of sunshine.
The great person to go with was easy. My daughter, Diana, had never been on a cruise and was so excited about every event and it made me catch her enthusiasm and feel like a brand new traveler. We had different interests and did not always choose to do the same thing and that worked out well. She is an early riser and I like the late hours, but somehow we meshed perfectly.
I had traveled on Princess Cruises before and trusted that the cruise line would be a great choice to provide attentive service. One look at our room and we knew that it had been prepared for us by someone who really cared. That friendly someone was named Cerry Vitto, and he looked after our every need. When we entered our suite the first thing we saw was a magnificent floral arrangement and in front of it was a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Champagne in an ice bucket, with two glasses waiting to be filled. Cerry appeared almost immediately to open our wine and to let us know that we could enjoy it on our balcony as we set sail.
Shore Excursions
Choosing the perfect shore excursions proved to be a gargantuan task. Luckily, my always helpful agent at Camarillo Travel, Judy Van Dyke, provided me with a copy of Alaska Adventures Ashore. The book offered 148 pages of fabulous offerings we could choose to do at our three ports of call – Skagway, Juneau and Ketchikan. Because there are so many choices I strongly suggest perusing the book ahead of time. Princess allows you to book the excursions online.
We struck it rich in Skagway by choosing the Yukon Expedition and White Pass Scenic Railway. It had it all: a trip up the legendary White Pass Trail of ’98 on the Scenic Railway, a motorcoach trip through the Tormented Valley, and, best of all, we didn’t go hungry! A short bus ride took us from the ship to the train. Once aboard, the Scenic Railway lived up to its name as there were great views of both the valley and river below as we went along. A bonus was the view of the other half of the train on sharp curves. After we crested the summit, we entered Canada. After a very brief customs stop, we traveled by motorcoach through the Tormented Valley and visited the Yukon village of Carcross. As we traveled, our sharp-eyed driver spotted bears for us so we could continue to enjoy the magnificent scenery. We stopped by Lake Bennett and there in the Canadian wilderness was a sandy beach with small waves lapping on the shore. The only thing missing was the temperature. Although our good weather held, we were wearing jackets to ward off the cool breezes. At the Caribou Crossing Trading Post, we had a wonderful and filling barbecue lunch in a rustic outdoor setting. How they made and served homemade, old-time doughnuts for so many of us was a Yukon miracle. The delightful sugar and cinnamon toppings reminded me of doughnuts a friend of mine used to make years ago. After lunch we visited an extensive wildlife gallery that had assembled a collection of animals indigenous to the area dating back to a restored wooly mammoth. Adjacent to the gallery was a dog sled training facility. The adventurous could take a ride on a sled pulled over dirt by dogs in training. My daughter and I opted to pet the friendly adult dogs and hold the cuddly puppies that would be future sledders.
Back aboard the Coral Princess we sailed to our next port, Juneau. We brought our fair weather with us to our next wonderful shore excursion, a visit to the stunning Mendenhall Glacier. John Muir described it as “one of the most beautiful of all coastal glaciers.” What a sight when you first see this massive river of ice – mere typed words cannot begin to do it justice . There is an excellent visitor center where you can explore interactive exhibits and an informative video. From there we traveled to a unique salmon-rearing facility where we were able to learn about this fish, which so many of us love so much. We finished the Juneau excursion in style with a lunch in an Alaskan rainforest. At an outdoor facility we feasted on barbequed wild Alaskan salmon, chicken or ribs, with lots of accompaniments. We were on the banks of a creek and could hear both the sound of the water and the guitar entertainment. After the meal we were free to explore the grounds and visit a waterfall and an historic mine. Then on to the ship!
At our last port of call, Ketchikan, we actually brought the sun which the locals claimed they hadn’t seen in weeks. There we chose a tour that allowed us to learn about the Native culture. First we visited a recreated 19th century Alaska village. We saw numerous colorful totem poles, went into a clan house and finally arrived at the carving center, where artisans perfect their craft and preserve stories of their ancestors in these magnificent cedar totem poles. We finished this portion of our tour by enjoying some smoked salmon at the Trading Company. We took a short bus ride across town to the Totem Heritage Center to see the collection of ancient totem poles. In the late afternoon, we journeyed to the Deer Mountain Tribal Hatchery and Eagle Center where an Alaska Native interpreter took us through the life cycle of salmon. In the center we met two American bald eagles, both survivors of accidents. They no longer can fly but are happily housed in an outdoor facility resembling their natural habitat.
Dining
Dining on a cruise has changed quite a bit from what I remember. I recall a long table with three on each side and two at each end and like your companions or not, this was it. Now, it is a matter of choice. You can go traditional; meaning either early or late seating for dinner with the same group each night, or there is an anytime fine dining option where you eat on your own schedule. Yet another possibility, and perhaps the most interesting, are the specialty dining venues in which on our ship meant a choice between Sabatini’s (fine Italian), or New Orleans cuisine at the Bayou Café and Steak House. Of course, there were some people who decided on casual dining and for them nine choices including the Pizzeria or the 24-hour buffet. Diana wanted to try the traditional route and what a lucky experience that turned out to be. The tables are set up so that it is more like eating in a stylish restaurant. The service is above and beyond what you would receive at a five star restaurant. Chris, our waiter, remembered our preferences, down to which person at the table liked ground pepper and he was always looking out for us. We were seated with three couples that we did not know, all very different and very interesting. We found ourselves sitting at the table long after the last dish had been cleared, still laughing and talking and solving the problems of the world. One day we hope to visit Hot Springs, Arkansas, home town of the Fastenows, our new friends. One night Diana and I left our tablemates to try the specialty restaurant Sabatini’s. When we met our waiter, Alessandro, we were greeted by a rousing chorus of “That’s Amore,” and we knew the show was on. Diners going to Sabatini’s for the first time are advised to skip food the day of the dinner. This is why: you choose your entrée (and when it comes if you don’t like it, choose another) and then you try almost everything on the menu, leaving you pleading “no more.” The Antipasti was six menu choices including, crab cakes and caviar. Next came the pizza, thankfully only one piece. For the zuppe (soup) we had the seafood cioppino, then all three pastas, spaghetti, gnocchi and cannelloni. The entrée we both chose was Aragoste allo Champagne, cold water lobster tails (4!) from Brazil, brushed with Champagne butter. Before we could escape our vocalist returned with one more chorus about the “moon hitting the sky” to present us with five magnificent desserts. Of course, we couldn’t disappoint him so we gave each one a try and returned to our cabin with a song still ringing in our ears.
The Days at Sea
On the second day of our journey we visited College Fjord, the hidden jewel of Prince William Sound, where five major tidewater glaciers reach the salt water. The next day we traveled on to Glacier Bay National Park. Here there are over 3.3 million acres of forest, inlet and shore with mountain peaks rising up to 15,000 feet. Diana and I were graciously invited by Captain Manfuso to a private visit to the Bridge during our stop in the Bay. Stepping out of the corridor onto the bridge was a sight I will not soon forget. There are floor to ceiling windows that curve around each side of the ship so that you get a panoramic view. After being introduced to the captain and Passenger Service Director, Gianfranco Verde, we also met the pilot. After we were seated we noticed that the Captain and the officers were watching the glacial ice to our left. We moved so that we could watch, too. They explained to us that a signal that calving is about to begin, is when you see small showers of ice and snow tumbling into the water or hear cracking and rumbling sounds. Calving is the fall of a large quantity of ice. The glaciers really put on quite a show for us. Large pieces began to fall and we got some excellent pictures and a video. You could hear the roar of the passengers when they saw and heard the calving.
Alternatives to excursions
We could have been entertained 24 hours a day on the ship without ever venturing ashore. Scholarship@Sea offered 30 classes to suit just about anyone. Diana and I were interested in the computer classes that gave us a start on working with digital pictures on the computer. One of our dining companions, David, chose the classes on pottery at sea and came out with new dust catchers for his home. We could have learned about martinis but I chose wine tasting instead and Diana saw a movie. There were culinary demos and Galley Tours and backstage at the Princess Theater. If you wanted to get start scrapbooking, it was available, too.
Afternoon Tea or maybe the Lotus Spa and Fitness
Having had tea at the Empress Hotel we thought this would be a great place to spend a late afternoon and we were right. If it was a full day of pampering you wanted, or if you were trying to burn some of the calories you had been consuming, there was the Spa. Somehow we never made it there.
The Entertainment
Two theaters were available each night with an exciting array of stage shows. There were comedians, singers and dancers, a comedy magician, a hypnotist and for the last evening there was a farewell variety show.
The Let Down
Back home, phone messages, e-mails stacked high, computer problems, sick dog. Help! Get me on the next cruises out of here so I don’t have to put my own napkin in my lap!
Travel Stories
The WINOs put on a lot of road miles from 1988 to 1997. WINO Travel began with two long weekend cruises from Los Angeles to Mexico. The first lengthy WINO trip was in 1991, when 20 of us went to Costa Rica. Not exactly wine country but we had an exciting time – especially when a 6.4 earthquake hit right after we had arrived at the rainforest! Ken saved the day when he held on to boxes of wine that had been shipped in for our days there as the earth shook.
Several other WINO Travel events took place on the high seas. Since I was teaching on a year-round school calendar, we were able to take cruises to the Eastern and Western Caribbean in January of 1991 and 1996. During the time we were at sea winemakers and winery owners give seminars. Darrell Groom from Geyser Peak and Ken Brown from Byron were very special speakers. In July of 1997 we took the group on a trip from Vancouver to Alaska on a ship, then a plane to Fairbanks, and came back to Anchorage on a train. This time we had a husband and wife winemaker team that entertained and enlightened us with their presentations. Bob Iantosca from Gloria Ferrer and Julia Iantosca from Lambert Bridge gave us a view of winemaking in Sonoma County.
As WINO Travel became more experienced, the destinations became more distant and adventurous. We visited Greece, Spain and France in successive springs, and April 1994 we journeyed to the Southern Hemisphere – Australia and New Zealand – where we saw crush and bottling at an odd time of year for us Northern Hemisphereites! In 1997 we would cross the Equator again for a visit to Chile. Several hardy travelers stayed on and experienced crossing the Andes by boat and bus between the seven lakes from Porto Montt to reach Bariloche and the Argentina border. We then continued on to Buenos Aires for more tasting and touring.
And how could I forget Italy, 49 of us took the trip of our lives to Italy. Our group first arrived in Milan and then journeyed to the golden city of Florence. In Venice we traveled by gondolas, Ken, Jeanne and Michael Bartlett drinking sparkling wine by Bortolotti Winery (Bartlett cousins). We traveled in a soaking rain to Lake Como with a spectacular stop at Zenato winery. There we dried our shoes in front of a huge old fireplace while they plied us with wine & food. Those who went with us said they did not want to go back to Italy as that was a trip they wanted to remember as it was.